FREE Crochet Door Mouse Crochet Pattern

This week I am welcoming Victoria Kairis from @smileycrochetthings to the blog with her super cute Crochet Door Mouse FREE Pattern. Isn’t it just adorable?

“As this is a guest post, Bella Coco Crochet is unable to answer any queries. If you have a question, please contact the designer directly and they will be happy to help you.”

Materials and Tools needed

Any yarn in any weight and colour can be used for this pattern, as long as it is all the same weight and you use an appropriate size hook for the yarn used.

For the cotton mouse Ricorumi DK (100% cotton) was used:

Body colour – Ecru (054) 40m (1 ball)

Only scraps are needed for the following colours:

Pink – Pink (011) approx. 3m

Dark Pink – Orchid (016) approx. 5m

Blue – Light blue (033) approx. 3m

Green – Mint (041) approx. 3m

Yellow – Pastel yellow (062) approx. 3m

For the wool mouse Drops Lima DK (65% wool, 35% alpaca) was used and for the acrylic mouse Sirdar Hayfield Bonus DK (100% acrylic) was used.

3mm crochet hook (choose an appropriate size for a tight tension)

Large sewing needle for sewing the mouse together

Polyester toy stuffing (you can also use the inside of an old polyester stuffed pillow)

2 x 9mm black safety eyes, alternatively embroider sleepy eyes onto the mouse

Stitch markers

Pins

Notes and gauge

Using the materials suggested this pattern makes a toy that is 13cm (5 inches) high by 10cm (4 inches) wide.

This pattern uses the amigurumi method, working in continuous spirals (unless stated otherwise). There is a right side and a wrong side, the right side will be on the outside when working in a clockwise direction, and the front loops will be on the outside.

You will need to use a stitch marker, placed in the last stitch of every round. This can either be a small plastic safety pin style one or a small length of yarn placed in between stitches.

You will want to work with a tight tension so that when you stuff the toy the stuffing doesn’t show through the holes in the stitches.

Skill level

This pattern is suitable for beginners

Stitches and Abbreviations

Pattern written in UK terms

Stitch(es) – st(s)

Round(s) – rnd(s)

Chain(s): ch(s): Yarn over, pull through

Magic Ring – There are several ways to make a starting ring; this is just my preferred method. Wrap yarn twice around the middle finger (end of yarn next to fingertip, hold end of yarn in place with first finger), insert hook under both loops and pull the yarn under both loops and make one chain stitch. Take the ring off the finger and put the hook through the middle of the ring to make a dc and as many dc as the pattern instructs. Pull the short end and watch which loop decreases, pull the decreasing loop to close the ring, then pull the end to completely close the ring. (If a magic ring is not for you, you can chain 2 and work all of the stitches into the first chain).

Slip Stitch(s): sl st: Insert hook, yarn over pull through stitch and loop on hook

Double Crochet(s): dc(s): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.

Increase – 2dc – two dc in the same stitch.

Invisible decrease – dc2tog – In this pattern most decreases are invisible decreases. Put the hook into the front loop of the first stitch, then put the hook into the front loop of the second stitch, yarn over, pull a loop through the 2 stitches, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. (Invisible decreases are optional, a regular decrease would work too).

Half Treble Crochet(s): htr(s): Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining three loops.

Treble Crochet(s): tr(s):  Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.

Back loops – When looking at the top of a row of double crochet, usually you would put your crochet hook through 2 strands of yarn, for back loops only put the crochet hook through only the loop furthest away from you.

Front loops  – as back loops but put your hook through the front of the two loops.

Join yarn – put hook through the joining stitch, pull through a loop of the new yarn, make a chain stitch with both ends of the yarn then pull both the tail and the loop tight to secure the yarn, begin working with the new yarn.

Fasten off – do one chain stitch, cut the yarn and then pull the short end tight, remove the ball from the finished piece.

Unsure of the differences between UK and US terms? Need a refresher on how to do your stitches? In my ‘How to crochet: A handy reference guide’ EBook I help you with all of these terms and you can always have them to hand! You will also get exclusive access to free video instructions. You can find my EBook HERE.

Pattern

Head (in body colour)

The head is worked from the tip of the nose to the back of the head

6dc in a magic ring

• dc into each st around (6)
• 2dc in each st around (12)
• dc into each st around (12)
• (dc, 2dc) 6 times (18)
• dc into each st around (18)
• (dc into next 2, 2dc) 6 times (24)
• dc into each st around (24)
• (dc into next 3, 2dc) 6 times (30)
• (dc into next 4, 2dc) 6 times (36)
• (dc into next 5, 2dc) 6 times (42)

Rnds 11-13 dc into each st around (42 sts, 3 rnds)

• (dc into next 5, dc2tog) 6 times (36)
• (dc into next 4, dc2tog) 6 times (30)
• (dc into next 3, dc2tog) 6 times (24)
• (dc into next 2, dc2tog) 6 times (18) Attach in the saftey eyes (if using) and then stuff the head after this round before the opening gets too small.
• (dc,dc2tog) 6 times (12)
• dc2tog 6 times (6)fasten off

Gather the stitches from the last round together by sewing through the front loops of each of the 6 stitches and then pulling the ring closed.

Body (in body colour)

The body is worked from the bottom up

6dc in a magic ring

• 2dc in each st around (12)
• (dc, 2dc) 6 times (18)
• (dc into next 2, 2dc) 6 times(24)
• (dc into next 3, 2dc) 6 times (30)
• (dc into next 4, 2dc) 6 times (36)

Rnds 6-9 dc into each st around (36 sts, 4 rnds)

Rnd 10 (dc into next 4, dc2tog) 6 times (30)

Rnds 11-13 dc into each st around (30 sts, 3 rnds)

Rnd 14 (dc into next 3, dc2tog) 6 times (24)

Rnds 15-16 dc into each st around (24 sts, 2 rnds)

Rnds 17 (dc into next 2, dc2tog) 6 times (18)

Rnds 18 dc into each st around (18)

Rnds 19 (dc into next 4,dc2tog) 3 times, ss into first st (15) fasten off leaving a long tail.

Sew the head onto the body with the face pointing down a little.

Ears (in body colour, make 2)

6dc in a magic ring

• 2dc 6 times (12)
• (dc, 2dc) 6 times (18)
• dc into each st around (18)
• (dc into next 2, 2dc) 6 times (24)
• dc into each st around (24)
• (dc into next 2, dc2tog) 6 times (18)
• (dc, dc2tog) 6 times, ss into first st (12) fasten off.

Flatten each ear, curve it into a wide U shape and then sew to the head.

Nose (in pink)

3dc in a magic ring

Rnd 1 2dc 3 times, ss into first st (6) fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to face.

Sew the nose onto the front of the mouse’s face.

Flowers

Daffodil (in yellow)

5dc in a magic ring

Rnd 1 In back loops only (ch1, htr, tr, htr, ch1, ss) all in the same st, repeat brackets a further 4 times (5 petals) fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the flower to the mouse.

Join to the front loops left behind in the last round. Tip: The front loops can be a little tricky to get your hook into, I use a sewing needle to lift each loop before putting my hook in.

Rnd 1 dc into each st around (5)

Rnd 2 (ss into next st, ch2) 5 times, ss into the first st (5) fasten off and weave in the end.

Blossom (begin in dark pink)

5dc in a magic ring, ss into the first st, fasten off.

Rnd 1 Join pink to the back loops of the previous rnd, (ch1, 2htr, ch1, ss) all in the same stitch, repeat brackets a further 4 times (5 petals) fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the flower to the mouse. Sew the end through the first stitch to join the petals. Weave in any other ends.

Forget-me-not (in blue)

Make a magic ring, (ch2, tr, ch2, ss) 5 times into the magic ring, close the ring (5 petals) fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the flower to the mouse.

Leaf (in green)

Ch6

Rnd 1 Begin working in the 3^rd ch on hook, 2htr, 2htr in next st, dc, (dc, ch2, ss into the 2^nd ch from the hook, dc) in the same stitch, turn to work in the underside of the starting ch, dc, 2htr, 2htr into next st, ss into the first st (12) fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the leaf to the mouse.

Arrange the flowers on the top of the head, I like to push a pin through them to see how it looks, and then sew the flowers in place. Make as many or as few flowers as you like.

Bow

Band (in dark pink)

Ch25

Row 1 Beginning in the 2^nd ch from the hook, dc into each st (24) fasten off leaving a long tail.

Wrap the band around the mouse’s neck and sew the ends together to form a loop and then weave in the ends.

Bow (in dark pink)

Ch3

Row 1 Begin in the 1^st ch (3^rd ch from hook), (5tr, ch2, ss, ch2, 5tr, ch2, ss) all in the same st, fasten off leaving a very long tail.

Wrap the tail around the middle of the bow several times and knot at the back to secure. Sew the bow to the join of the band and then weave in the ends.

Hanging loop (in dark pink)

Ch38

Pull the starting tail through a stitch in the top of the head, ss into the first ch, fasten off. Then pull the loop round until the knot is pulled into the head, sew the ends into the head to finish.

“This is a fantastic stash busting project as it doesn’t use much of any yarn. I have made three out of my own yarn stash; one in cotton, wool and acrylic, just to prove that it doesn’t matter what you have in your stash (or your local shop) you can still make beautiful amigurumi. The pattern is perfect for beginners to amigurumi as it is simple yet uses all of the basic amigurumi techniques, such as magic rings, working in spirals and invisible decreases.”

Copyright © 2020 Victoria Kairis

Please do not copy, reproduce or sell this pattern or the images therein. If you wish to sell items made using this pattern, or share photos of the item on social media, I ask that you credit me (Smiley Crochet Things) as the designer.

You can read my interview with Victoria over on my Instagram stories today.

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