Sunday Coffee Crochet Cardigan (UPDATED Sizing!)

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This beautiful crochet cardigan pattern was originally published in 2020. However, the lovely Emilia has expanded the size range to fit Bella Coco Crochet’s size inclusivity stance.

It can be difficult sometimes finding the perfect crochet cardigan to take you between seasons. You need something cosy, easy to layer and timeless. Well, stop the search. The Sunday Coffee Crochet Cardigan from the hugely talented Emilia of Coffee and Crocheting ticks ALL the boxes and more. Ideal for lounging at home with a hot chocolate and a book (or your hook!) or taking a short stroll in the cool air, this hardworking crochet cardigan will be your go-to all season long.

Emilia herself says, “The Sunday Coffee Crochet Cardigan is a cosy cardigan that is perfect to wear at home or wear it as a coatigan while strolling through the park. The cardigan is inspired by a cosy cold Sunday afternoon. Snuggle up by the fire or in front of candles, sipping on a cup of coffee, relaxing. This cardigan is the perfect staple for your wardrobe and both my pattern testers and I haven’t been able to take it off since making it. Join us with your version!

The feature of this design is the hidden pockets, as I like to call them. You’ll learn how to make them which will be a great addition to your technique toolbox that you can add to any bottom up pattern of your choice.”

As this is a guest post, Bella Coco Crochet is unable to answer any queries. If you have a question, please contact the designer directly and they will be happy to help you.

MATERIALS & TOOLS NEEDED

Yarn: Aran weight yarn 1250 (1400, 1450, 1600, 1800, 1950, 2100, 2250, 2400) m / 1320 (1520, 1580, 1750, 1950, 2130, 2270, 2460, 2600) yards

For the sample piece I used Touch of Alpaca by Lion Brand. You could also use Stylecraft Special Aran or Paintbox Simply Aran to make this crochet cardgian.

Hook: 5mm

Tapestry needle

8-9 Stitch markers

PATTERN NOTES

The Sunday Coffee Crochet Cardigan is made in 3 pieces: one body section and two sleeves. These are then seamed together, and a border is added.

Turning chains do not count as stitches. Stitch count can be found in parentheses later in this guide.

The cardigan in the pictures is in size S.

Sizes 3XL-5XL are currently untested – however have been graded.

This pattern is written using US terminology

GAUGE

11 esc across~
10 rows of esc

Gauge for sleeves:

15 hdc-blo across
10 rows

SIZING

This pattern is written in nine sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).

Bust 85 (95, 105, 115, 125, 135, 145, 155, 165) cm / 33.5 (37.4, 41.3, 45.3, 49.2, 53.1, 57.1, 61, 65)”

Length 70 (70, 70, 72, 75, 77, 77, 79, 79) cm / 27.6 (27.6, 27.6, 28.3, 29.5, 30.3, 30.3, 31.1, 31.1)”

Sleeve circumference 32 (34, 36, 40, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52) cm / 12.6 (13.4, 14.2, 15.7, 17.3, 18.1, 18.9, 19.7, 20.5)”
Your own measurements of the bust should be 5 cm / 2” smaller. Positive ease.

Yarn requirements for sizes: 1250 (1400, 1450, 1600, 1800, 1950, 2100, 2250, 2400) m / 1320 (1520, 1580, 1750, 1950, 2130, 2270, 2460, 2600) yards

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CROCHET TERMS

Chain Stitch (ch): Insert hook, yarn over, pull though loop on the hook.

Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook through stitch, yarn over, pull through chain stitch (2 loops on the hook), yarn over, pull through two loops on the hook

Extended Single Crochet (esc): Insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on the hook), yo, pull through one of the loops on the hook, yo, pull through remaining loop on the hook.

Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook through stitch, yarn over, pull through chain and loop on the hook.

sl st blo: slip stitch back loop only

Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over and insert your hook into the chain or stitch, yarn over and pull through (you will have three loops on the hook) yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook

hdc-blo: half double crochet back loop only

yo: yarn over

sm: stitch marker

Unsure of the differences between UK and US terms? Need a refresher on how to do your stitches? In my ‘How to crochet: A handy reference guide’ EBook I help you with all of these terms and you can always have them to hand! You will also get exclusive access to free video instructions. You can find my EBook HERE.

If you LOVE crochet garments, then why now browse my wearable archive to find your next pattern? It’s packed full of patterns to keep you warm all Winter!

SUNDAY COFFEE CROCHET CARDIGAN PATTERN

Starting the pattern

I recommend that you read through the crochet cardigan pattern to get an overall picture of what you will be doing. The pattern is made in three pieces: a body section and 2 sleeves. Once they are created you will sew the shoulders and attach the sleeves to the body piece of the crochet cardigan.

Start by checking your gauge. Begin with the 5 mm (if you know from the beginning that you crochet tight, you can start with a larger hook) and chain 23. Make a esc in the third chain from the hook. Repeat across row. Chain 2. Turn. Continue with esc across row. Chain 2. Turn. Make rows of esc until your gauge swatch is 10 cm/4” and you are ready to check your gauge.

Body

Ch 120 (131, 142, 153, 164, 172, 186, 197, 208)

Row 1: esc in the 3rd stitch from the hook. Esc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 118 (129, 140, 151, 162, 170, 184, 195, 206) sts

Row 2 – 20 (25 for sizes XL-5XL): esc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 118 (129, 140, 151, 162, 170, 184, 195, 206) sts Do not fasten off, continue with the pockets.

Before row 21 (26 for sizes XL-5XL) you will add pockets to your cardigan.

If you do not want pockets, continue repeating row 2 up to 53 (53, 52, 54, 56, 56, 57, 57, 57). Also, if you want a longer cardigan than stated for your size, add more repeats of row 2 at this point. For deeper pockets; add more rows before creating the pockets.

Pockets

Place the cardigan with your working yarn on the right and the end from your starting chain on the left (see picture below). Place a sm in the 10th and 24 (25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32 )th stitch from the edge. Repeat on the other side. Place a sm in the 10th and 24 (25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32) th stitch from the edge on each side on row 8 (see picture 1). The sm will be referred to as 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th counting from right to left, they exist on two levels row 8 and row 20 (25) (therefore 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4).

Leave a tail of 30 cm / 11.8”, this will be used later to sew the sides of the pockets. Attach your yarn with a slip knot in the top of the st with 1st sm from the edge (on row 8), Ch 2. Esc in the same stitch. Esc across row, ending in the st with the 2nd sm. Ch 2. Turn. 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23) sts

Esc across row. Ch 2. Turn (15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23) sts

Repeat rows of esc until your pocket height reaches the top of row 20 (25) of your body piece, that will be 11 (16) rows. Fasten off and leave a 30 cm / 11.8” tail to sew the side of the pocket.

Repeat on the other side, attaching your yarn in the 3rd sm and ending the row in the 4th.

Body – Continue

Row 21 (26 for sizes XL-5XL): 9 esc, esc in the 1st esc of the pocket, esc across pocket, esc in st after the 2nd sm on the body, continue with esc across row until 3rd sm. esc in the 1st esc of the pocket, esc across pocket. Esc in the st 4th sm, continue with esc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 118 (129, 140, 151, 162, 170, 184, 195, 206) sts

Sewing the sides of the pockets

Use the tails you left before attaching the yarn and after fastening off to sew the sides of the pockets.

Body – Continue

Row 22 – 53 (53, 52, 54, 56, 56, 57, 57, 57) *: Esc back across row you just worked. Ch 2. Turn. Do not fasten off after last row. To make it easier to handle the body piece, sew the sides of the pockets on the wrong side of the garment to close them already on row 23 (28) (instructions below). 118 (129, 140, 151, 162, 170, 184, 195, 206) sts. Do not fasten off. Continue with front section 1.

*Deciding on sleeve width

How many rows you will make here depends on the width you want on your sleeve. The sleeves have recommended width for each size in the size guide, but since the sleeves are wide and stretchy already from the beginning it is best to match the sleeve as close to your own measurements as possible.

Measure the width of your arm at the widest. Since the gauge for the sleeves is 1 cm per row you can use the number of centimetres as the number of rows you need to crochet for the sleeves. The pattern gives a suggestion on the width of the sleeves as follows: 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52 cm / 11.8, 12.6, 13.4, 14.2, 15, 15.7, 16.5, 17.3, 18.1, 18.9, 19.7, 20.5″ wide (more options than sizes). If you go for a smaller width than the recommended for your size: add one more row of esc across for every 2 cm / 0.5″ less width of sleeve.

Place out 4 sm to start making the front pieces and back piece.

Place a sm in the 32 (34, 36, 38, 39, 40, 44, 47, 50)th st and one in the 36 (38, 42, 44, 47, 48, 52, 55, 58)th st from the edge. Repeat from the other edge.

Front section 1

Row 1: Continue from where you ended on row 53 (53, 52, 54, 56, 56, 57, 57, 57). Esc across row until the 1st sm, ending in the st before the sm. Ch 2. Turn. 31 (33, 35, 37, 38, 39, 43, 46, 49) sts

Row 2: Esc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 31 (33, 35, 37, 38, 39, 43, 46, 49) sts

Row 3 – Repeat row 2 until your front section measures half of the width of your decided sleeve width i.e. 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26 cm / 5.9, 6.3, 6.7, 7.1, 7.5, 7.9, 8.3, 8.7, 9.1, 9.4, 9.8, 10.2″ high. Write down how many rows you made. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing the shoulders.

Back section

Row 1: Attach your yarn with a sl knot in the st after the 2nd sm after your 1st front section. Ch 2, esc in the same st. esc across row until the st before the 3rd sm. Ch 2. Turn. 46 (53, 57, 63, 68, 74, 80, 85, 90) sts

Row 2: Esc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 46 (53, 56, 63, 68, 74, 80, 85, 90) sts

Row 3 – Repeat row 2 for as many rows as you did on front section 1. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing the shoulders.

Front section 2

Row 1: Attach your yarn with a sl knot in the st after the 4th sm (after your back section) Esc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 31 (33, 35, 37, 38, 39, 43, 46, 49) sts

Row 2: Esc across row. Ch 2. Turn. 31 (33, 35, 37, 38, 39, 43, 46, 49) sts

Row 3 – Repeat row 2 for as many rows as you did on front section 1. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing the shoulders.

Sew the shoulders

Front section 1 and 2 as well as back section are ready. Fold the front section over the back piece and sew the shoulders. Do not sew all the way. Leave an opening for the neck. Measure on your back piece so that you leave around 18-28 cm / 7.1- 11” in the middle as a neck opening.

Sew the shoulders using the mattress stitch using the tails you left from front and back sections. You will not need all three tails, fasten off the one you do not use (depends on what side the tail is on, which depends on what sleeve circumference you decided on). It is sewn with right side of the garment facing out.

It is done like lacing a shoelace. Go under the back loop of the other side, pull tight. Cross over to other side going under the back loop. Repeat across.

Border of the body/neckline

Attach the yarn in the back of the neckline with a slip knot (right side facing out). Ch 1.

Row 1: Place one sc in every sts around the edges of the cardigan. Around 1-2 sc per row. Space them out as sc2tog in the inside corners of the neckline. Make 3 sc in the outer corners of the cardigan. Continue spacing out all the way around. Join to the first sc of the round with a sl st. Ch 1. Turn.

Row 2: sl st blo around. Join to the first sl st of the round with a sl st. Fasten off.

Sleeves

Make 2.
Begin with checking the gauge for the sleeves. Gauge for sleeves: 15 hdc-blo across, 10 rows. Change hook size if needed.

The sleeves are worked from the side, meaning the width will be the length. That means you will have to decide on sleeve length already from the beginning.

Below instructions assume a sleeve length of 47 cm / 18.5” which is usually a good sleeves length for many. Try on your cardigan and measure from the shoulder and from under the arms and take the measurement between these two as a good sleeve length. For example, from the shoulder to my hand I have 53 cm / 20.9” and from under my arms 44 cm / 17.3”, 47 cm / 18.5” is between these two. Attach your first sleeve to the cardigan before you make the second and try on. This way you’ll know a good sleeve length for you. You can also hold up the sleeve after a few rows and already then get a view on final length.

To adjust the sleeve length, add or remove chains. For every 2 cm add / remove 3 chains, for every 0.5” almost 2 ch.

Ch 70

Row 1: hdc-blo in the 3rd stitch from the hook. Hdc-blo across row. Ch 2. Turn. 68 sts

Row 2 – 29, 31, 33, 35, 36, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51*: hdc-blo across row. Ch 2. Turn. 68 sts

*the number of rows here depend on the width you decided to have on your sleeve. If you want it 30 cm / 11.8″ around, then make 29 rows (i.e. always one row less than your cm width). The seam and the stretch of the stitch will add the final cm / 0.5″.

Fold the sleeve in half, lengthwise. Sew it from bottom up, leaving an opening at the top, as wide as the width on your body section where you attach sleeve (see picture).

Attaching the sleeves to the cardigan

Fold the sleeves in half long ways. Sew the side using the mattress stitch as you did for the shoulders. Leave a bit of the unsewn before the edge (same amount as your cardigan stands out on the side where you attach sleeves, see pictures). Sew your sleeve to the cardigan using the mattress stitch. Fasten off.

Enjoy your completed Sunday Coffee Crochet Cardigan!

(Don’t forget to weave in all threads 😀)

ABOUT EMILIA

Hi, I am Emilia, the maker and designer behind Coffee & Crocheting . I am a 30-year old Scandinavian crochet designer who loves minimalism but isn’t afraid to mix it up with colours and textures. My goal is to design timeless pieces that will stay in your closet for a long time.

I hope you enjoy making my Sunday Coffee crochet cardigan! 

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